It’s that time again, between the Solstice and the New Year, when the sun stands still in its rising point and the holidays come thick and fast. It’s the one time of the year when I make some effort to cook “properly” — to have more than one side dish at a meal instead of the stir-fries and one-pot recipes I rely on most of the year. This year, I’ve been given a Petit Jean ham (well, a half-ham, which is still a remarkable hunk of pork; it’s from an Arkansas smokehouse and the name is pronounced “petty-gene”).
